'The Donut King' A Review

The Donut King is a documentary about Cambodian refugee Ted Ngoy who fled to the US after the Khmer Rogue revolution. After holding down multiple jobs he bought his first donut shop in California which quickly became an empire. He sponsored hundreds of Cambodian refugees/immigrants who he would employ in his shops and many of whom would then open their own independent donut shops. This effectively put Winchell's(California's biggest donut chain at the time) out of business and provided a path to livelihood for many of Ted's countryman. As Ted's influence and wealth grew there were inevitable complications. The documentary lays out Ted's story but also the story of many Cambodian American's and their enduring hold on the donut business in California.

Far reaching in tone and content, what first appears to be a quirky donut doc goes much deeper and somewhat darker, it highlights the stories of an inspiring group of Americans working hard towards the American Dream. At times, perhaps, oversimplifying and walking the line of playing into the 'model minority' stereotype it still shines a spotlight on an overlooked group, their history, their struggle, their endurance, and their success.

Way more complicated and complex than one would expect a documentary about donuts to be, there is a lot of interesting information and compelling stories within and it does a good job of trying to find balance and clarity in the historical context, the fallibility of it's subject, and the varied experiences of the group of Americans that are its focus. Although perhaps it's main subject, Ted, who's influence is indisputable is somewhat lionized when his personal life and his seeming longstanding connection to big-business Republican politicians is left mostly uninterrogated.

Currently streaming on Hulu.

Rent It.